Undiscovered Eastern Colombia - January 2026
Dates: January 2 - 10, 2026
Leaders: David Ascanio & Local Leader
E-bird
Total Species: 195 birds
Click Here to view list.
Overall Summary
As the old Spanish saying has it, “One has a plan in life, but life frequently has a different plan for one.” It never occurred to me that I would be faced with the need to put together—in six hours—an alternative itinerary to keep us away from the Colombia-Venezuela border.
Instead of taking our originally planned domestic flight to Inírida, we spent the day in the high Andes near Bogotá, waiting as the situation in neighboring Venezuela unfolded. By noon, it was clear that we would have to create a new itinerary, and Camilo and I planned a new route that would still involve seeing Guianan and Amazonian birds, but would also offer the opportunity for treats such as the Harpy Eagle and Andean Cock-of-the-rock.
Our new destination was the wonderful foothills of the East Andes, looking out over the famous Llanos. We left Bogotá and drove by way of Villavicencio to Casa Hillebrand, where the wonderful lodge staff already had breakfast waiting for us. Excellent as that meal was, it was hard to keep our eyes on our food, as the lodge’s fruit tables were already attracting birds. This was a prime opportunity for us to begin to appreciate the minor differences between populations of a single bird—such as the Amazonian population versus the Orinoquia population of the Blue-gray Tanager—and to learn to distinguish similar species—such as the Black-billed, Spectacled, and Pale-breasted thrushes. Eyes truly lit up when a pair of Blue-necked Tanagers appeared along with the local subspecies of the White-vented Plumeleteer.
After breakfast, we boarded four-wheel-drive vehicles for the ascent of the Monterredondo Road. Some of the most desired species quickly started to appear, including the Green-bellied Hummingbird, Crested Spinetail (difficult here, but an easy bird to see in Venezuela), and Burnished-buff, Blue-and-black, and Speckled tanagers. The icing on the cake was a Black-streaked Puffbird we enjoyed in the scope. Back at the lodge, we fell in love with a roosting pair of Band-bellied Owls and a family group of Andean Night-Monkeys.
As we were enjoying lunch, we heard an unexpected siren, indicating that the road we had been about to take was being closed because of the massive holiday traffic returning to Bogotá. We had no choice but to rest and then meet up again for some birding on the property. Fortunately, the road eventually reopened, and we continued our day with the drive to Rancho Camana, where we arrived in time to enjoy Marta’s great lasagna.
A full day at Rancho Camana and Villavicencio was a chance to explore Bavaria Forest, once the water supply for a brewery. With one sought-after species in mind, the White-chested Puffbird, we explored this wonderful road for White-browed and Dusky antbirds and the White-chinned Jacamar—and we saw the puffbird very well. After lunch, we reconvened at Rancho Camana to meet Elvis and Nathalia, who were feeding Little Cuckoo and Rufous-and-white Wren with mealworms (Tenebrionidae, darkling beetles). Seeing these birds perched in the open was magical. Later, we boarded the van and proceeded to check the grasslands, which paid off with views of Scarlet Ibis, two Giant Anteaters, Hoatzin, Green Ibis, and a bunch of other Llanos birds.
Our second morning in the Villavicencio area found us birding the Camino Monfortiano, where we found the confusing Rusty-margined, Social, and Gray-capped flycatchers along with such common species as the Southern Rough-winged Swallow and Pale-vented Pigeon—common or not, we greatly enjoyed the wonderful electric-green iridescence on the nape of the pigeon. Minutes later, the real show started with superb views of Sooty-capped Hermit, Golden-bellied Euphonia (nesting at eye level), and a juvenile Giant Cowbird begging for food from an adult Crested Oropendola. It was a very special moment when an elegant Sunbittern was seen walking along the road, later taking off to show the wonderful rosette pattern of its wings.
As we walked to the forest, a pair of Northern Slaty-Antshrikes showed up along with a Plain-brown Woodcreeper, perched next to army ants, and White-bearded Manakins displaying nearby. We found that the army ants were not actually hunting, and thus bird activity was down. Rain eventually forced us to leave, but we seized the opportunity to check another area, the Santa Lucia bridge, where we found the jewel in the crown, a pair of juvenile male Andean Cock-of-the-rocks displaying on a satellite lek. What a moment! We returned to Rancho Camana for lunch and a lecture by Marta and Nathalia about the history of the ranch and the Camana Foundation. Later, after a short rest, we set out for our next destination, Mesetas, in the La Macarena Mountains, on the edge of the Guianan Shield.
Our next big day started with high hopes and with a wonderful view of the Macarena Mountains as we drove to Mesetas, the base for the Harpy Eagle project. What we were about to face was, once again, unthinkable. The weather forecast had indicated a dry and sunny day, and we took that as a positive sign. The morning did indeed start out in bright sunshine, and we rode four-wheel-drive vehicles five miles along a dirt road to the farm where a “short walk” waited for us. Said walk turned out to be much harder and rougher, requiring two uphill hikes and the crossing of an impressively made bridge. It also involved making our way across a mountain river on a platform pulled by hand with ropes. This turned out to be a true adventure! Some of us waited at a farm halfway to the harpy nest.
After a rigorous hike, those who made it enjoyed seeing Her Majesty, the female Harpy Eagle, the nest, and her chick at eye level! As it came time to leave, a family group of Spider Monkeys crossed our path and accompanied us down the hill.
What happened next was one of the most challenging moments of my 40-year career as a bird tour leader. Unexpected heavy clouds showed up, and rain started pouring down. Umbrellas opened, and we made for another farm, halfway back to the vehicles, where we holed up until the weather improved. Meanwhile, Camilo and I consulted with the drivers. They had concerns about the water-soaked road—completely unexpected, since we were in the dry season.
Eventually, the sun appeared, and we decided to walk back to the vehicles and chance the drive back to town, where our van was waiting for us. As we walked back, another dark cloud appeared, and it started raining again, turning the road into a mud trap. What a nightmare! At that point, unsure whether we could make it to town, I rushed one driver and two participants into one of the vehicles, and we drove as far as we could, then walked the rest of the way under a beautiful clear night sky. Once we reached the settlement, we asked for assistance, and two motorcycles were dispatched with food, electrolytes, and blankets.
What happened next was one of the most spectacular rescues I have ever experienced. The local staff used their tools to turn up the soil along the road, creating a drier surface. They made it back to town well after midnight, and the community exploded in celebration!
For obvious reasons, the next day started later than normal, but some birding before we made the drive back added an assortment of relatively common lowland species to our tally. Once in Camana, we enjoyed seeing the Yellow-mandibled Sparrow, Little Cuckoo, and Black-crested Antshrike, all followed by another superb dinner.
It was the last full day, and we were ready for what would be the grand finale, a visit to La Herreria. Another steep road in four-wheel-drive vehicles took us to the site of one of the region’s most successful conservation programs, where a farm family has joined efforts with Fundacion Camana to protect one of the most threatened members of the Grallariidae, the Cundinamarca Antpitta. After breakfast, a member of the family took us to a blind, where, in response to calling, a beautiful adult female antpitta appeared, and then a sub-adult as well! On the way back to the main road, we enjoyed a nest of Black-and-chestnut Eagles. Equipped with wonderful empanadas for a snack, we drove back to Bogotá to round off the most challenging tour of my professional life.
I want to thank you all for being so patient and so good-humored, even when gray clouds appeared and challenged our plans. I hope that over the years, even when many of the tour experiences have faded away, you will still remember the wonderful Colombians, their coffee, and, of course, the magical birds we enjoyed on this Miracle Tour!
Day-by-Day Summary
January 2 - Arrival in Bogotá. Due to developing events along the Colombia–Venezuela border, plans were revised and an alternative itinerary was developed. Birding in the high Andes near Bogotá.
January 3 - Drive via Villavicencio to Casa Hillebrand in the eastern Andean foothills. Birding around the lodge and along the Monterredondo Road, with highlights including Green-bellied Hummingbird, Crested Spinetail, Black-streaked Puffbird, Band-bellied Owl, and Andean Night-Monkey. Afternoon transfer to Rancho Camana.
January 4 - Full day exploring Bavaria Forest and surrounding Llanos habitats. Highlights included White-chested Puffbird, White-chinned Jacamar, Little Cuckoo, Rufous-and-white Wren, Scarlet Ibis, Giant Anteater, Hoatzin, and Green Ibis.
January 5 - Morning birding at Camino Monfortiano and Santa Lucia, with Sunbittern, Sooty-capped Hermit, White-bearded Manakin, and displaying Andean Cock-of-the-rocks. Afternoon transfer to Mesetas in the La Macarena region.
January 6 - Excursion to the Harpy Eagle project near Mesetas. Challenging hike to view an adult female Harpy Eagle and chick at the nest. Spider Monkeys seen on the return. Heavy rain and difficult road conditions led to an unforgettable late-night rescue effort.
January 7 - Late start following the previous day's adventure. Morning birding around Mesetas before returning to Rancho Camana. Highlights included Yellow-mandibled Sparrow, Little Cuckoo, and Black-crested Antshrike.
January 8 - Visit to La Herreria conservation area. Excellent views of the endangered Cundinamarca Antpitta from a blind. Also enjoyed Black-and-chestnut Eagles before returning to Bogotá.
January 9 - Free time, optional sightseeing, checklist review, and farewell dinner in Bogotá.
January 10 - Transfers to the airport for international departures.