Southern Peru: Feathers & Traditions - September 2025
Dates: September 1 - 12, 2025
Leaders: Doris Valencia & Local Leader
E-bird
Total Species: 127 birds
Click Here to view list.
Overall Summary
Early September marked the beginning of one of the most rewarding journeys I have guided in recent years: our fairly new Feathers & Traditions Tour. This was its second departure. The name says it all: this itinerary blends the natural richness of the Andes and cloud forests with the cultural traditions, history, and daily life of Peru. It is more than a birding trip; it is a way to see the country through multiple lenses—through feathers, traditions, landscapes, and, certainly, people.
Some travelers arrived in Lima a day or two early to do additional sightseeing on their own, and, as always, we were happy to assist with any arrangements. But the real adventure began when our group of ten fearless travelers officially came together and flew into Cusco on September 2. For me, it is hard to describe the pleasure and delight of showing people around my home region—not just the birds, but also my culture, my people, and my stories.
One of the small but important elements of this trip was the pace. Unlike many birding tours, where mornings start painfully early, we did not rise at an unreasonable hour. Instead, we enjoyed hearty hot breakfasts every day, with local breads, fresh fruit, eggs, coffee, and juice. We never went hungry in the field either; snacks were always on hand. That rhythm—early enough to seize the best hours of bird activity but never rushed—kept the group happy and energized. The weather was also on our side. The Andes can be unpredictable, but this week the skies seemed to smile on us. With only minor adjustments needed, we were able to follow the itinerary as planned.
Our first field explorations took us to high-elevation lagoons with reed beds at the Ramsar site of Huacarpay. Here we admired teals, ducks, ibises, gulls, and a variety of passerines. The thin air at altitude slowed our pace, but the birds rewarded every step. In the background, dramatic mountains framed the scene, their peaks alternating between sharp shadows and brilliant light as clouds passed.
A highlight soon followed in the Urubamba Valley, where we visited a couple of hummingbird gardens. Few birds delight a group as much as hummingbirds—their colors, their speed, and their almost mythical energy. Here we had fabulous views of several specialties, but the star was, without doubt, the Bearded Mountaineer. Endemic and highly localized, it is one of those species that draws a smile from everyone. The more widespread hummingbirds were equally enchanting.
While we were enjoying the dazzling display of hummingbirds in one of the gardens, we were suddenly rewarded with an unexpected visitor: the elusive Undulated Antpitta. This shy Andean bird is notoriously difficult to see, yet it gave us wonderful views and even enough time for photos. For a brief moment, it hopped around on the ground, feeding calmly before vanishing back into the undergrowth. We all felt incredibly fortunate to be in the right place at the right time.
A truly magical morning came when we visited the mysterious site of Moray. Despite all the reading I have done, Moray remains an enigma. Its concentric circular terraces may have served as an agricultural laboratory or perhaps as ceremonial spaces; scholars still debate their purpose. Standing there, the imagination runs wild. We arrived early enough that the site was practically empty, a rare privilege at such a popular destination. To walk quietly along the terraces, without crowds, felt like traveling back in time. The travelers sensed it too; I truly believe everyone enjoyed the silence and the crisp morning air.
Adding to the moment, the birding was awesome. We had killer looks at the endemic Rusty-fronted Canastero. I honestly cannot remember seeing this bird so well, especially with a group this size. It was a combination of luck, patience, and perfect timing.
From Moray, we continued our journey with a visit to my dear friend Flora in her Andean community. If Moray connected us with the mysteries of the past, this encounter connected us with living tradition. We were welcomed like family, introduced to several of Flora’s close relatives, and invited to sit with them as they shared the art of Andean weaving.
The women patiently explained each step of the process. First came the gathering of fibers from llamas, alpacas, and sheep. Then came the cleaning and spinning, often done by hand with simple tools. Natural dyes came from plants, minerals, and even insects, producing a rich palette of colors. Finally, the fibers were set onto backstrap looms, where skill and patience created textiles with intricate patterns and designs.
This was not just a demonstration; it was a story of resilience. As Flora explained, many young people no longer wish to learn these skills. Modern clothing and synthetic fabrics are easier, cheaper, and more fashionable. To keep the tradition alive, the community organizes weekend workshops for children, hoping to spark pride and continuity.
Watching the women weave, the travelers were deeply moved. It was clear that these designs were not only beautiful but also carriers of memory and identity. This experience embodied the essence of our tour. The birds alone are extraordinary, but when combined with human stories, they become part of a wider landscape of meaning and purpose.
A full day was dedicated entirely to high-elevation birding. These habitats are demanding but rewarding, and the group embraced the challenge. The scenery was grand, with magnificent views of the Urubamba mountain range and its peaks rising above 18,000 feet. High-elevation grasslands, elfin forests, and upper montane forests provided the perfect setting for excellent birding.
Our efforts were rewarded with sightings of the Creamy-crested Spinetail and the dazzling White-tufted Sunbeam, both endemics and crowd favorites. Other highlights included the colorful Tit-like Dacnis, more than 100 Puna Ibises, Crested Ducks, Andean Geese, and several tanager species. At altitude, every sighting feels earned, and the sense of triumph within the group was palpable.
No matter how many times I visit, Machu Picchu never loses its magic. From Ollantaytambo, we boarded the train for a 90-minute ride into an entirely different world. The dry Andean valleys gave way to lush tropical cloud forest, creating a fascinating ecological and cultural transition.
We did what few groups attempt: we dedicated two full days to Machu Picchu. This decision allowed us to explore the site in depth, wander without rushing, and absorb its atmosphere while learning about the people who planned and built it—their vision, precision, and harmony with the landscape.
The birding here was equally memorable. Around our hotel grounds, we found colorful tanagers and several new hummingbird species. As we checked in, we were greeted by none other than a male Andean Cock-of-the-rock feeding quietly on palm nuts—a welcome committee like no other.
On the trails, we encountered Russet-crowned Warblers, Chestnut-capped Brushfinches, Andean Guans, and Andean Motmots. As a major surprise, we also enjoyed excellent scope views of the elusive Blue-banded Toucanet across the river. Machu Picchu was indeed the icing on the cake, blending world-class culture with equally world-class birding.
After Machu Picchu, we returned to the charming town of Ollantaytambo, unique for being the only continuously inhabited Inca town in existence. Walking its cobbled streets felt like stepping into a living museum. Travelers delighted in the mixture of daily life—children playing, vendors selling their goods, and farmers carrying on their routines against a backdrop of ancient stone walls.
From Ollantaytambo, we continued into a completely different watershed: the Apurímac River Valley. Here, a comfortable glamping facility became our base, and the nearby forests gave us opportunities to appreciate species with highly restricted ranges. We found not one but two Apurímac Brushfinches and Apurímac Spinetails. Other highlights included the Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet, Red-crested Cotinga, and the striking Crimson-mantled Woodpecker.
Then came one of the most anticipated experiences: the hike to the condor lookout. The two-mile walk brought us to a viewpoint overlooking the immense Apurímac Canyon. The green and brown slopes dropped steeply to the river far below, creating a dramatic stage. As we watched, a male Andean Condor appeared, soaring effortlessly and soon joined by two immatures.
We concluded our trip with three nights in Cusco, staying in a lovely colonial mansion in the heart of the historic downtown. This gave us time to explore not only the city’s famous landmarks but also its everyday life: bustling markets, colorful shops, and lively plazas.
A special highlight was visiting the Koricancha, the Temple of the Sun, the most important temple of the Inca Empire. Its walls of finely cut andesite and basalt blocks demonstrated Inca masonry at its absolute peak. Standing there, one could feel the reverence and power it once commanded.
One evening was devoted to a private session at the Cusco Planetarium. There, we learned about the constellations visible in the Southern Hemisphere and their significance in the agriculture, rituals, and daily lives of the Inca and pre-Inca peoples. Looking through telescopes after the presentation, travelers connected sky and earth in a way rarely possible elsewhere.
Nearby archaeological sites added to the wonder. At Pisac, built on a natural saddle high in the mountains, we admired vast terraces, sophisticated irrigation systems, and what is considered the largest Inca cemetery, with more than 3,000 tombs carved into a cliff. Here we also enjoyed sightings of White-browed Chat-Tyrants, Band-tailed Seedeaters, and other common birds.
At the site of Sacsayhuamán, the sheer scale of the stones—some of the largest ever moved by human hands in South America—left us speechless. We imagined the effort and skill required to build such a ceremonial center, where various festivities, ceremonies, and rituals once took place.
Of course, no journey in Peru is complete without food. Throughout the trip, we enjoyed delicious meals, often at my favorite restaurants. We sampled local specialties, from hearty soups and trout dishes to quinoa-based recipes and the unforgettable cuy (guinea pig) for those willing to be adventurous. Each meal was an opportunity to talk, laugh, and share stories. The group quickly bonded, creating a camaraderie that transformed ten individuals into a family of travelers.
Looking back, this tour embodied exactly what I hoped Feathers & Traditions would be. It was not only about the birds, though the list of sightings was extraordinary, with endemics and rarities that any birder would envy. It was also about people, history, food, and the weaving together of daily life and the natural world.
For me, guiding this group was a privilege. To show them my homeland, to share not only the field marks of a hummingbird but also the stories of my ancestors, and to see their delight at both a condor and a woven textile—that is why I guide.
This trip was special in every respect, and I hope to share it with more travelers on future departures. For those who seek birds and culture, landscapes and traditions, feathers and history, Peru awaits.
Day-by-Day Summary
September 1 - Arrival in Lima. Optional independent sightseeing and preparation for the adventure ahead.
September 2 - Group arrival in Cusco and transfer to the Sacred Valley region. Afternoon birding at Huacarpay Ramsar Site, exploring high-elevation lagoons and reed beds for waterfowl, ibises, gulls, and Andean passerines.
September 3 - Birding in the Urubamba Valley with visits to hummingbird gardens. Highlights included Bearded Mountaineer, numerous hummingbird species, and an unexpected encounter with the elusive Undulated Antpitta.
September 4 - Early morning visit to the Inca terraces of Moray and birding for the endemic Rusty-fronted Canastero. Afternoon cultural immersion with Flora's community, learning traditional Andean weaving techniques and local customs.
September 5 - Full-day exploration of high-elevation grasslands, elfin forests, and upper montane habitats. Highlights included Creamy-crested Spinetail, White-tufted Sunbeam, Tit-like Dacnis, Puna Ibis, Andean Goose, and spectacular mountain scenery.
September 6 - Train journey from Ollantaytambo through cloud forest to Machu Picchu. Afternoon exploration of the sanctuary and birding around the hotel grounds, including Andean Cock-of-the-rock and colorful tanagers.
September 7 - A full day dedicated to Machu Picchu. In-depth exploration of the archaeological site combined with birding for Russet-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch, Andean Guan, Andean Motmot, and Blue-banded Toucanet.
September 8 - Morning in the historic Inca town of Ollantaytambo before traveling to the Apurímac River Valley. Afternoon birding near our glamping lodge for regional specialties, including Apurímac Brushfinch and Apurímac Spinetail.
September 9 - Birding in the Apurímac Valley for restricted-range species such as Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet, Red-crested Cotinga, and Crimson-mantled Woodpecker. Hike to the condor viewpoint overlooking the dramatic Apurímac Canyon, with excellent views of Andean Condors.
September 10 - Transfer to Cusco with a visit to the archaeological complex of Pisac. Exploration of terraces, tombs, and birding opportunities before settling into our historic hotel in downtown Cusco.
September 11 - Exploration of Cusco's historic center, including Koricancha (Temple of the Sun) and the monumental fortress of Sacsayhuamán. Evening visit to the Cusco Planetarium for an introduction to Inca astronomy and Southern Hemisphere constellations.
September 12 - Final breakfast and departures from Cusco. End of the Feathers & Traditions Tour.
Wildlife Seen:
MAMMALS:
Llamas (lama glama) and Alpacas (Vicugna pacos)
Long-tailed weasel (Neogale frenata)
Mountain Viscacha (Lagidium viscacia)
Brown Agouti (Dasyprocta variegata)
Wild guinea pig (Cavia tschudii)
River otter (Lontra longicaudis)