Colombia: Magdalena River Valley & Western Andes - July 2025

Dates: July 19 - 27, 2025


Leaders: David Ascanio & Local Leader

E-bird

Total Species: 253 birds

Click Here to view list.


Overall Summary

The magic of Colombia’s birds made this special Relaxed and Easy tour one to remember. Our focus here in the Central and Western Andes was on seeing the greatest variety of birds while avoiding strenuous walks on steep trails. What a great list of birds we tallied!

We began our grand slam of a tour in Rionegro, the site of Medellín’s José María Córdova International Airport. Those of us who arrived early strolled around the gardens and parking areas to find such wonderful Andean birds as the Scrub Tanager, Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Steely-vented Hummingbird, and the endemic Colombian Chachalaca.

On the first morning of the tour, we followed a Colombian-style breakfast with a relaxed departure for Amalita, a wetland that provided superb views of Black-bellied and Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, Cocoi Heron, and a male Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch singing confidently from the top of a bush.

Once it started to warm up, we made the short drive to the reserve at Vivero Cantos de Agua. The owner of this family-run refuge, Mrs. Norita, had bought land that was dominated by African grasses. Determined to restore the habitat, she planted trees and allowed native vegetation to grow back, creating a veritable Shangri-La of Andean nature. The Andean Motmot and Red-bellied Grackle were seen well here, and White-sided Flowerpiercer and Steely-vented Hummingbird were found near the feeders. After some great birds, a delicious cup of coffee (locally called tinto), great apple bananas, and time spent getting to know a beautiful family, it was time to head down toward the Magdalena River Valley, where a new array of birds awaited.

While we waited for a typical Colombian lunch at El Palacio de los Frijoles, we enjoyed the endemic White-mantled Barbet and the superb Crimson-backed Tanager. After our meal, we continued our drive into the lowlands, which was quickly interrupted by even more marvelous birds. Thick-billed Euphonias, more Crimson-backed Tanagers, Blue-gray and Palm Tanagers, and Saffron Finch appeared. But the star of the show was a superb Beautiful Woodpecker, a sought-after species entirely restricted to Colombia. The site of all these wonders was unremarkable—a place for truck drivers to stop and have a drink. But the birds didn’t mind!

Once in the lowlands, we visited two hotspots: Reserva Natural Cañón del Río Claro and Puerto Nare Road. We visited Río Claro twice. On our first visit, we hardly had to move at all, as right at the reserve entrance we found Cinnamon Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, Band-backed and Bicolored Wrens, White-shouldered Tanager, and Fulvous-vented Euphonia. Finally, we drove toward the dining room, where we had another blast of birds, including the yellow-tufted subspecies of Black-faced Dacnis and a long list of tanagers, including Dusky-faced, Crimson-backed, Blue-gray, Palm, Golden-hooded, and Plain-colored. On our second morning there, we drove to the other end of the preserve, where we started the day with views of Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Ruddy Quail-Dove, Gartered and White-tailed Trogons, Western Olivaceous Flatbill, and more Dusky-faced Tanagers. It was nonstop!

Puerto Nare offered a completely different but equally rich experience. The road leads to an old port, where cargo used to be shipped to destinations along the Magdalena River. We were searching for lowland birds and riverine forest species, alongside a sampling of birds occurring on the plains of the Orinoco and some species of limited distribution, such as the Northern Screamer. Plains specialties here included Savanna Hawk, White-winged Swallow, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, and Yellow-chinned Spinetail. We also tallied Pied and Russet-throated Puffbirds, Gray-breasted Crake (heard), and White-eared Conebill. Blue-and-yellow and Chestnut-fronted Macaws rounded off a day of multicolored birds.

After a couple of days in the lowlands, we were ready to head for cooler temperatures and higher ground. After driving to Rionegro, we spent a night in Medellín, then left the next day for the Western Andes.

Jardín, our next location, was a perfect complement to what we had experienced in the Magdalena River Valley. Characterized by colonial houses with ample windows and tile roofs, Jardín takes you back to the time when coffee dominated trade here. The main square is packed with tables of locals playing chess and dominoes, while kids playing soccer dream of stardom in Colombia’s major league. Drinks and handicrafts are sold from booths—and, just as in every corner of the country, there is more than one coffee shop.

We spent our full day here birding along the road to Ventanas, where a preserve dedicated to the Yellow-eared Parrot is located. The hummingbird feeders welcomed us with a fine selection of these little gems: first the Buff-tailed Coronet and White-bellied Woodstar, followed by a Sword-billed Hummingbird and a Collared Inca. The greatest moment came when a Tourmaline Sunangel landed and turned its head toward us in a brilliant show of color. We also observed Long-tailed Sylphs and both Sparkling and Lesser Violetears.

Ventanas was also the place for several antpittas, tapaculos, and chat-tyrants. We saw Yellow-eared Parrots in flight and had the opportunity to enjoy views of White-capped Tanager, Citrine Warbler, Mountain Cacique, Black-collared Jay, Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, Plushcap (amazing looks!), and Golden-fronted Redstart. We headed down to town for lunch, then had a short break followed by an afternoon outing to look for Andean Cocks-of-the-rock. When we arrived, a single male was perched nicely on a branch, but it flew away. Just as we were resigning ourselves to the idea that the rain had put a stop to the males’ display, a second male arrived and gave a superb show!

There was one more place to visit: Finca Bambusa. Over a nice coffee, we enjoyed more views of Colombian Chachalaca and Bronze-winged Parrot. Then we headed back to Medellín and Rionegro, where we spent a final night before heading home with wonderful memories of a week in beautiful Colombia.

We look forward to seeing you again!


Day-by-Day Summary

July 19 - Arrive in Rionegro and transfer to the hotel. Early arrivals can enjoy casual birding around the grounds, with chances for Scrub Tanager, Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Steely-vented Hummingbird, and the endemic Colombian Chachalaca.

July 20 - Morning birding at Amalita Wetlands, where Black-bellied and Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, Cocoi Heron, and Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch highlight the visit. Continue to Vivero Cantos de Agua for Andean Motmot, Red-bellied Grackle, and hummingbirds before descending to the Magdalena River Valley.

July 21 - Explore the rich forests of Reserva Natural Cañón del Río Claro. Enjoy easy birding with species such as Cinnamon Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, Band-backed and Bicolored Wrens, White-shouldered Tanager, Fulvous-vented Euphonia, and an impressive variety of tanagers.

July 22 - Bird the diverse habitats along Puerto Nare Road in search of riverine and lowland specialties. Highlights may include Northern Screamer, Savanna Hawk, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, puffbirds, White-eared Conebill, and colorful macaws.

July 23 - A final morning at Río Claro offers opportunities for Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Ruddy Quail-Dove, White-tailed Trogon, and Western Olivaceous Flatbill. After lunch, return to Medellín for an overnight stay.

July 24 - Travel into the scenic Western Andes to the charming colonial town of Jardín. Spend the afternoon enjoying the town’s colorful streets, coffee culture, and relaxed atmosphere.

July 25 - Full-day birding at Ventanas. Visit hummingbird feeders frequented by Buff-tailed Coronet, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Tourmaline Sunangel, and Long-tailed Sylph. Search for Yellow-eared Parrot, White-capped Tanager, Citrine Warbler, Plushcap, and other Andean specialties.

July 26 - Morning birding around Jardín, followed by a visit to an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek. Later, enjoy coffee and birding at Finca Bambusa, with chances for Colombian Chachalaca and Bronze-winged Parrot. Return to Rionegro for the final night.

July 27 - Transfer to José María Córdova International Airport for flights home, bringing an unforgettable week of birding in Colombia’s Central and Western Andes to a close.


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